Bodegas Navarrsotillo
Navarrsotillo wine estate is now run by the brothers Ramon, Luis and Andres Serrano, three brothers who could hardly be more different. The lean Luis is actually a university professor in Pamplona; Ramon is the quiet, reserved, down-to-earth cellar master; and Andres, despite his imposing size, is a lively, energetic entrepreneur who succeeded within a few years in making the business one of Spain's leading organic producers. Alongside wine, fruit and vegetables are grown on the farm's total area of 95 ha: plums, apples and pears, the asparagus for which the region is so well known, and the lovely little Piccillos, pointed red peppers with delicious sweetness and a hint of delicate heat. Some produce is exported, but most is sold through the delicatessen departments of Spain's luxury department-store chain Corte Ingles. Navarrsotillo's organic wines also stand there, virtually the only organic wines among all the other prestigious names in wine.
The vineyards surround the little village of Andosilla. Andres clearly has a feel for them, and as winegrowing is only part of the business, they allow themselves the pleasure of deliberately acquiring and cultivating vineyards in the finest sites, even where these do not promise the highest yields. Particularly impressive is an old Garnacha vineyard on the plateau west of the village, planted 117 years ago. Each vine is a small personality in its own right, commanding respect and even awe. For Andres, it is the most beautiful place on the estate, a haven of meditative relaxation, but also a vineyard demanding much care and manual work, rewarding this intensive effort with sparse yet undoubtedly characterful yields.
The winery is compact, modern and functional. It allows clean working and offers everything a cellar master needs to make good wines, with ample temperature-controlled space for ageing the more ambitious wines in barrique, plus cooling equipment that helps produce fresh rosé and white wines. Alongside the very coherent hierarchy of classic Riojas, from unoaked Joven through Crianza to Reserva and Gran Reserva, interested wine lovers will also find rather rare specialities: single-variety wines from the Rioja area's most important grapes. There is an excellent Rosado from 100% Garnacha; this grape variety is also made into a red wine. Other specialities include a pure Mazuelo (called Carignan in France) and a characterful Graciano. The bodega confidently follows its own stylistic path, combining the best of Rioja tradition with a new, modern style of slightly fruitier organic wines that suits contemporary tastes.
+49 (0) 8362 9308800
