Domaine Boucabeille
“The weather is turning fine” is usually a welcome statement. For winegrowers in Roussillon, however, it brings considerable worry. In the early 2000s, the rain stopped falling there. And when it does rain, as in summer 2011, so much water falls at once that it simply washes away the precious soil beneath the vines. As a result, yields from the gnarled vines on poor slate soils fall even further: a harsh reality. In Germany, we can expect around 7500 litres of wine per hectare; in Roussillon, this has fallen to just 1500 – 2000 litres per hectare. Only a few years earlier, yields were twice as high. It was then that Jean Boucabeille left his job to take over the estate from his father: “Back then, you could still make a good living from it.” Jean’s father, Régis Boucabeille, bought the land in the 1970s and planted the first vines on 12 hectares of steep slopes at the foot of Forca Real, a small mountain in northern Roussillon. Alongside his main job in the private sector, he tended the estate as a hobby, with loving manual care. Following its conversion to organic viticulture, the estate has been organically certified since 2008.
The poor slate soils force the vines to root deeply to reach water and essential minerals. The interplay of these soils, low rainfall and low yields produces wines of incredible aromatic diversity and richness. The slate gives them their typical character: finesse, elegant tannins, complex aromas and a long finish. All of this is achieved entirely by hand.