Fratelli Rovero
In Tuscany, estates like this would be called a fattoria. Cascina Il Milin, the Rovero family's property, is a small hamlet in its own right. Numerous modest little houses, added to over time, cluster around a central square. The estate lies near Asti, surrounded by fine vineyard sites. The Roveros first made their name as grappa distillers. They rightly rank among Italy's handful of most respected masters of the craft, and even well-known fellow winegrowers have them distil their house spirits.
In particular, Claudio Rovero has devoted himself intensively to the vineyards and grape processing in recent years. Good experiences, especially with Barbera in 1988-90, encouraged him to refine the quality of his wines and to plant and vinify other interesting varieties alongside Barbera. Unlike many, even more famous, colleagues, Claudio places great importance on bringing out the distinctive character of Piedmontese varieties. The Barbera is neither artificially concentrated — which, officially, the others would of course never do either... — nor deacidified. It retains the variety's rather lively acidity, which is very well integrated. The Barbera from the Gustin site is a true model, in the best sense, of everything that makes this grape so exciting. Essentially similar base wines are carefully aged in barrique for the top blend Rouvé. The Roveros make this wine only in good vintages; it has enormous ageing potential and wonderful complexity. The Cabernet and Pinot Noir reds are also a pleasure: velvety, full of fruit, with a pleasant oak note that never feels contrived.